I have worked with suits for just over three years, before that I had spent another three years working with with high end casual wear. So, after years of seeing and working with proper fits, fabrics, and styling, I have a few things to say about one certain “retailer”. The most important thing I do at work is ask questions. Questions like: “when are you wearing this?” or ” how many suits do you own?” It is important to also ask “what do you need this suit to do?” and “what kind of fit are you interested in?” as well as several others throughout the process. It is these questions that I will use to recommend whether you need a black, charcoal, navy, or patterned suit. Do you need a suit for work? If so, I take you to ones that I know will hold up. Are you getting a Nobel Prize? We head over to a piece of wool so beautiful it just says “thank you”. The most important service I provide is answers – what shirts to wear, what ties, what socks, when to separate the jacket to wear with jeans (never) and any others that come up along the life of the suit. If you were to walk in today you would be able to try on the suit, see how the pant feels, how the construction of the jacket works for you. All fabrics hang, and feel different. Its crucial to make sure you like the tone of the colour, the depth of the fabric and how it makes you feel. I am a huge believer that suiting is more about feel then fit. To look really good in a suit you need to feel like yourself at your best. You should put the jacket on and just feel like life got a little easier. It’s my job to make sure you look good. If we build trust it’s easy to help guide you throughout this process and the results do show. Now lets take a little look at costs.
The break down is that the difference of three hundred and sixteen dollars gets you a fair amount. What’s the difference of 20 threads per micron? The big difference is wrinkling, a 200 being much less prone to harsh wrinkles. A super 200 will also have more depth than a super 180 wool. Now, I am a little bit of a sucker for manufacturing; I love things that are made with history. I am so lucky that I get to work with product that has a story to tell. Jack Victor for example was established in Montreal in 1913 and now employees 700 people all in their downtown Montreal factory and customer service centre. Empire’s story is much the same. To fit your suit online you are asked for several measurements of several different locations of your body. I needed a little help to get some of them. It really should never be so difficult. Suit sizing works with with logic through drop sizes. I wear a size 36, which is in reference to inches around the chest. That is all you really need to know. If I am at work and it is a size 36 suit, that will fit me. It could be a little small, or a little big, but that is the difference between company and cut. A standard suit comes with a six inch drop, hence a 36 jacket comes with a size 30 pant. Tweaks like taking in the back, hemming the pant, collar roll, shortening or lengthening the sleeves, are other alterations that can be done on site by an in store master tailor. This is one of the major investments. A suit can be let out, or taken in, so as you grow and change over the life of the suit (generally one to three years depending on wear) these changes can easily be made free of charge. And because you have opted for a higher quality super 200 wool, your suit will last longer. And then there is shipping, oh wait, you supported a local business. You get to go in, and you can try it on with your shirt, shoes, and tie. I get to make sure you look suitable. If a further alteration is needed, then the in house master tailor comes up and takes a look, and makes it right. Thankfully my job doesn’t stop there. In the real world things happen, your suit was such a hit you got invited to an amazing cocktail party, you got home late, a touch blurry eyed perhaps, you hang your jacket up weird. Three days later you go to grab your suit and suddenly somethings not right. Well your not on your own at all, call, email, come in, most of these issues can be solved by the tailor or a simple trick you had never heard of. I know I cannot speak for all suit sales people, but I do speak to how myself and my coworkers treat our profession that is menswear.
A few shots from Fashion du Jour